Monthly Archives: October 2015

Christophe & Fils Chablis Premier Cru 2012 “Montée de tonnerre”

Processed with VSCOcam with se3 presetI’ve refrained from opening one of these for about 2 years now but tonight I fancied something nice. Because like Reserve James said wisely earlier today, the best time to open a really good bottle is when you have nothing planned and you have all the time you need to appreciate it.

I’ve been watching England vs Fidji tonight and spending some time with this Chablis 1er Cru 2012 from Christophe et Fils, acquired from Naked Wines in 2013. I don’t remember how much I paid for it but I think this one would have been over £20, maybe just under with “Angel” price.

It’s currently superb with fresh orchard fruit and a touch of cream/yogurt aromas. Intense and vivid on the palate, great acidity and length. Bright yellow apples, white pepper, mineral flint, it’s all there.

Montée de Tonerre is a single 1er Cru vineyard in the Chablis area, bordering the river Serein. As you may or may not know, Chablis is the name of the place, Chardonnay is the grape. Whilst Chablis is generally associated with the wider Burgundy appellation, there are a few cases for it to be its own appellation really. For one, it really doesn’t make the same sort of wines as they do in the Côte de Beaune.

Chablis has a a soil more akin to that of Sancerre in the Loire valley and Champagne, called a Kimmeridgian soil. It’s calcareous and full of old fossils from millions of years ago when the land was basically the ocean. Some say this soil give the wine that unmistakable “mineral” or “flinty” quality. On the other hand, science has shown that there is no exchange of minerals between the soil and the grape. So nobody has really explained how we get “soil characteristics” in the flavour of the wine.

Fact is, it’s a tremendous wine. Whilst I’m loving this right now, I think I opened it too soon. It’s still quite tight and a little closed. Airing it opens it up a bit but age will give it grace, depth and complexity.

Lucky I have 2 more on the rack.

Happy Friday y’all!